A bay on the north coast.

A bay shaped like a bowl

Arenal d'en Castell lies on Menorca's north coast, in the municipality of Es Mercadal, at the head of a bay that is almost a circle. A narrow mouth opens to the sea and a pale curve of sand rings the inner shore. Behind the beach the village is small and low, with buildings on the flat ground and on the slopes at either side. The water is the centre of everything. The place reads at a glance: beach, water, a handful of streets and no through traffic.

This is the Tramuntana side of the island: older, darker rock, a coast that takes the northern wind, and a sea that can be glassy in the morning and restless after a blow. Headlands on both sides shelter the bay, so swell reaches it from one direction only. On calm days the water is clear to the sand well out from the shore. In August the bay fills early; in May and October it can be close to empty.

Sand, shallow water and care

The beach is a wide curve of pale sand with a gentle entry into the water, which stays shallow for a good distance out. That makes it one of the easier places on the island for small children and for anyone who prefers to swim without going far. The two ends of the bay are quieter than the middle in high summer. Sunbeds and shades appear in season and are taken away again in winter.

The bay is part of a working coastline as well as a holiday one. Posidonia oceanica, the seagrass that keeps Menorca's water clear, grows offshore, and anchoring over the meadows is regulated by a Balearic decree; mooring buoys are installed in some bays in summer. Behind the sand, low dunes and vegetation hold the beach together. Keeping to paths, carrying litter away and leaving the stones and shells where they are is what keeps it as it is.

What is near the bay

Arenal d'en Castell sits close to the middle of the island, which makes it a useful base. Es Mercadal, the small town at the foot of Monte Toro, is a few minutes inland with shops and everyday services. Fornells, the fishing village on the north coast, is a short drive east. The Camí de Cavalls, the 185 km bridleway that circles Menorca in 20 stages, runs along this coast and passes close to the bay.

East of the bay the coast turns wilder: the Favàritx lighthouse at the mouth of the S'Albufera des Grau Natural Park, the park's lagoon and dunes, and dark rock around the cape. Monte Toro, at about 358 m the highest point on the island, is a short drive inland, with a sanctuary at the top. Prehistoric sites listed with Talayotic Menorca are scattered across this interior, in fields and beside lanes, best visited without climbing on the stones.

• Es MercadalThe island's central town, at the foot of Monte Toro, with shops and everyday services.
• FornellsA fishing village on the north coast, known for its sheltered harbour and seafood cooking.
• FavàritxA lighthouse cape at the edge of S'Albufera des Grau, with dark rock and a rough sea.
• S'Albufera des GrauThe natural park at the core of the Biosphere Reserve, with a lagoon, dunes and birdlife.
• Camí de CavallsThe coast path around the island, in 20 stages, passing close to the bay.

Who it suits

The bay suits families with young children, anyone who wants to swim in flat water, and travellers who plan to spend their days out and come back to a quiet base. It works for walkers too, since the Camí de Cavalls runs nearby and the paths around Es Mercadal and Monte Toro are easy to reach. A car helps; without one, the bay is a place to stay rather than a place to tour from.

It suits less if you want a town with life through the winter, because most of the bay's businesses close from about November to April. It is not a nightlife base, and the nearest larger town for year-round shops and services is Maó. Anyone who wants to walk out to dinner in January, or to reach a different beach on foot each day, will be happier elsewhere on the island.

A car helps; without one, the bay is a place to stay rather than a place to tour from.

Evenings and food

In season the bay has enough places to eat that a week can pass without leaving it: lunches by the water, fish and pizza in the evening, ice cream for the walk back. The choice is small and the kitchens are geared to holiday trade, so standards are steady rather than ambitious. A small grocery covers the basics in summer. In August it pays to book. Out of season almost everything closes, and dinner means driving.

The local cooking is worth seeking out on the coast and inland. Caldereta de llagosta, the Menorcan lobster stew, is associated with the north coast and with Fornells in particular. Mahón-Menorca cheese has a protected designation of origin and turns up on most menus, often with olive oil and bread. Gin, a legacy of British rule in the eighteenth century, is still made in Maó and served with lemon.

Getting there from the airport

Menorca Airport (MAH) lies about 4-5 km south-west of Maó, and the straight-line distance from it to Arenal d'en Castell is about 17.4 km. By road the route is longer: you cross the island towards Alaior and Es Mercadal, then turn north for the coast. Hiring a car at the airport is the simplest way to arrive, and the drive is short outside peak hours.

Buses connect the airport with Maó, and seasonal lines serve the north coast and the bay; routes, timetables and frequencies change, so check the island bus operator before travelling. Taxis wait at the airport and can be booked in Maó. If you arrive late in the day, check that the place you are staying can be reached without a car, since local transport thins out after the season.

• By carHire at the airport and cross the island via Alaior and Es Mercadal; parking in the bay fills in August.
• By busAirport and town services connect through Maó; seasonal lines reach the north coast, so check timetables.
• DistanceAbout 17.4 km straight line from Menorca Airport; the road route is longer and crosses the centre.

Getting around

A car makes a difference here. The bay has one small centre, and the beaches, villages and prehistoric sites that make the north coast worth the journey are spread across the map. Parking near the beach and in the village is limited in July and August, and the seafront fills early. Bicycles work on the inland lanes, though the coast road is hilly and the wind is real.

On foot the bay itself is easy: a short promenade behind the sand, paths up the slopes on either side, and the Camí de Cavalls for longer walks along the coast in both directions. Nothing in the bay is far from anything else, and a torch helps on the unlit stretches. Buses reach Maó and Es Mercadal, more often in summer than in winter. Plan Ciutadella, in the west, as a day out by car rather than a short hop.

When to go and what closes

Late May, June, September and early October are the best of it: warm sea, quieter sand and a village that is open but not full. Typical sea temperatures run at about 18-19 °C in May, 22-23 °C in June, 25-26 °C in August and 23-25 °C in September. August is the busiest month, when the bay fills and parking becomes a test of patience. July is close behind.

From about November to April much of the tourism business closes: many hotels, beach bars, boat trips and seasonal buses stop, and many restaurants shut. The main towns, Maó and Ciutadella among them, stay open all year, and flights and ferries are fewer. Winter is quiet and often bright, with the coast path to yourself, but you need a car and a plan for meals. The tourist tax is charged by the accommodation per person per night, at rates that change with season and category; check the Balearic government site.

• High seasonJuly and August are busiest; the beach fills early and parking near the bay is difficult.
• ShoulderLate May, June, September and early October give warm water and fewer people.
• WinterFrom about November to April most holiday businesses close; the main towns stay open.
• Sea temperatureTypically around 18-19 °C in May and 25-26 °C in August, cooling again in September.