Kayak the north coast calas.

Small bays under pine

The north coast of Ibiza runs from Portinatx eastward past Cala d'en Serra and Port de Sant Miquel to Cala Sant Vicent, in the municipality of Sant Joan de Labritja. It is the quietest coast on the island: pine woods down to the water, small pebble and sand bays, low white houses, and long stretches where the land simply drops to the sea. Many of those bays have no road to them at all. The coast faces north, which shapes everything about when it can be paddled.

That is the argument for a kayak. From the water the coves arrive one after another, and the ones with no path stay empty even in August. The rock is old and dark, the water is deep close to shore in places, and the pine comes down to the tideline. Distances are short, so a half day covers a great deal without anyone having to race. The scale suits beginners, and it also suits anyone who would rather swim than paddle hard.

From the water the coves arrive one after another, and the ones with no path stay empty.

Getting to the north coast

Cala Sant Vicent sits at the eastern end of the north coast and is the usual base, reached by road from Sant Joan de Labritja or along the coast from Santa Eulària. Portinatx is at the western end, reached from Sant Joan or from Sant Antoni de Portmany. Both have parking that fills early in summer, and both see island buses in season; check the island bus operator for current lines and times. The last few kilometres are slow, narrow and shared with cyclists.

Driving from Ibiza Town takes you north through Santa Eulària or through Sant Joan de Labritja, and the final stretch is narrow, with walkers and cyclists on it. Fuel up before leaving the main road. Out of season the roads are quiet, but roadside places shut and public transport thins sharply between November and April. Carry water and food, and check the return journey before setting out, because a missed last bus is a long walk.

• By busIsland buses reach the north coast in season; check the operator for current lines and times.
• By carParking at Cala Sant Vicent and Portinatx fills by mid-morning in summer.
• On footPaths link some bays but not all, so walking cannot reach every cove.
• Fuel and waterFill up and buy water before the last narrow stretch of road.

When to paddle

The sea is calmest early, before the afternoon breeze builds. May and June are the best window: the water sits at about 18-19 °C in May and 22-23 °C in June, the coast is quiet, and the days are long. September, at 23-25 °C, is the other good month, with warm water and far fewer boats than August. An early start gives flat water and an empty bay in any of them. Water temperatures are typical rather than a forecast, so pack a rash vest even in June.

July and August bring the warmest sea, about 25-26 °C, and the most traffic on the water. Start at first light then, and expect company in the most accessible coves. The north coast takes the full force of the tramuntana, the north wind, so a northerly forecast means choosing another coast or another day. Wind can build in the afternoon without much warning, and a guide will know which coves sit out of it. Morning is also when the light is clearest over the shallows.

On the water

Kayaks can be hired in season at Cala Sant Vicent and Portinatx, and guided half-day trips run along the coast from spring to autumn. The businesses are small and seasonal, so book ahead in July and August and confirm in the morning that the trip is going out. Rental usually includes a buoyancy aid, a paddle and a short briefing on where to go and where not to. Out of season, bring your own kayak or paddle elsewhere.

A sensible half day follows the coast for a couple of kilometres, stops in one or two coves, and returns the same way. A full day can link Portinatx and Cala Sant Vicent for strong paddlers, but only with a forecast you trust and a plan for the return. The tidal range here is small; wind, not tide, decides the day. Keep close to shore on a first trip and turn back while there is still energy left.

• Half dayTwo or three hours covers a handful of coves with time to swim in each.
• Full dayLinking Portinatx and Cala Sant Vicent suits experienced paddlers on a settled day.
• Guided tripsLocal guides run in season and know which coves are out of the day's wind.
• Your own kayakLaunch from the main beach at either end, clear of swimmers and marked zones.

The rules on the water

Posidonia oceanica, the seagrass that gives these islands their clear water, grows from the shallows down to about 30 to 40 m. Anchoring over the meadows is regulated by a Balearic decree, and mooring buoys are installed in some bays in summer. A kayak never anchors, but the same care applies: keep hull, paddle and feet off the shallow meadows. Those meadows between Ibiza and Formentera are part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing of 1999.

Keep out of swimming zones, which are marked with buoys, and out of the channels where small boats move. Leave islets alone in spring and early summer, when seabirds nest. The endemic Pitiusan wall lizard lives on Ibiza and its islets; it is used to people and easy to harm, so do not feed it or pick it up. Fishing from a kayak is regulated, so check before taking a rod.

Doing it lightly

The north coast has no marina and very few facilities, which is why it still looks the way it does. Everything carried in comes back out: picnic remains, plastic, cigarette ends, and any food offered to fish or gulls. Sunscreen goes on before leaving the beach rather than in the water, and a long-sleeved top does more than a bottle. A kayak leaves no wake, no anchor scar and no noise.

Choose a small group, a local guide and a half day over a longer motorised outing. Avoid the middle of August if the dates are flexible, when the coast is at its busiest and the bays take the most pressure. In the coves, land on rock or at the back of the beach so the shallows stay clear of feet and hulls. If a bay already holds several groups, move on to the next one.

What to bring

A kayak on the north coast means sun with almost no shade. Bring a hat that ties on, a long-sleeved top, sunglasses with a strap and more drinking water than feels necessary. Water on a dry island is a finite resource, so refill a bottle where you can instead of buying a new one each day, and take the empty back. The coves have no facilities at all, so fill bottles before leaving.

Footwear that can get wet helps on rocky entries and pebble beaches, and a small dry bag keeps a phone, keys and a layer usable after the paddle. Take a light windproof even in August, because the afternoon breeze comes in cool after a hot day. A mask and snorkel turns every stop into the best part of the trip. A basic first-aid kit and a charged phone belong with the group.

• WaterCarry more than expected; there are no taps on this stretch of coast.
• Sun coverA hat, long sleeves and a rash vest work better than cream alone.
• Wet shoesRocky entries and pebble beaches are easier with footwear that grips.
• Dry bagA small dry bag keeps phone, keys and a layer dry through the day.
• SnorkelA mask turns each stop into a look at the meadows below the hull.

Nearby and practical notes

Cala Sant Vicent has a long sandy beach with a small village behind it, and Portinatx has several small beaches within walking distance of each other. Inland, Sant Joan de Labritja is a whitewashed village with a church, and Sant Carles de Peralta has the Las Dalias market on Saturdays; check current days. Further south, Es Canar holds the Punta Arabí market on Wednesdays in season. Both ends of the coast have places to eat in season and very little out of it.

Much of the tourist business on this coast closes roughly from November to April, including kayak hire and many places to eat. Check that a trip is running before travelling, especially at the edges of the season. Mobile coverage is patchy in some coves. The emergency number is 112. The tourist tax is charged by your accommodation at rates that change; check the Govern de les Illes Balears.

Cala Sant Vicent is the nearest base for the eastern half of this coast, and Portinatx for the western half; staying in Santa Eulària or in Sant Joan de Labritja puts both ends within reach by road. Book accommodation early for June and September, when the coast is at its best and the island is busy. Allow time for the slow road back at the end of the day, and drive it in daylight if it is unfamiliar.